5 things surfing taught me about training
1. If you keep paddling, some day you’ll catch a wave
This is a simple one; you just have to keep going… Above everything else, persistence is the key!
2. Paddle with the water not against it
Not many realise that surfing is 90% paddling 10% surfing. When I first started surfing I would paddle out anywhere along the beach; sometimes paddling directly against the current. A few years on, I realise that spending just a few minutes to spot where the water flows out to sea can save a lot of effort. The same goes for choosing the right nutrition and training plan.
Choose one that “flows” with your lifestyle and you can save yourself a lot of effort and heartache.
3. Your ego will get you in trouble, your humility and focus will save you
Last year I nearly drowned. I went out on a day where nobody else was in the water as conditions were big but not really safe. I was dragged a LONG way out to sea and then spent 60 minutes paddling in. At one stage I screamed at the top of my voice whilst frantically waving my hands to attract the attention of anyone on the shore. Nobody came. I could feel my muscles fatiguing as I used up too much energy. At that point I remembered efficient paddling technique and committed to a plan. Putting one foot in front of the other and by some way of a miracle I made it back into the line up and caught a wave in before collapsing on the beach.
The lesson was clear. You are very capable when you need to be, but not invincible.
4. A good coach can achieve time travel
At my existing level of progression when I was surfing on my own I expected it would take me a year to reach some of the goals I had. I hired Louis as my coach from Tynemouth Surf Co.
One month later I was one year better!
5. Remember why you are in the water
I got into surfing because of the way it FEEEELS!
As kids I think we like things just because we like them, without any need to justify it to ourselves or others.
I fell in love with being with the natural world and the feeling of a wave picking you up.
It would be easy for surfing to become another “to-do” and something I need to over analyse (the irony isn’t wasted on me) but just for now, I’m keeping it all about my reasons for doing it.
Your training should be the same.
Don’t do it for anybody else, don’t do it for instagram likes, own your program, let it be yours and nobody else’s unapologetically unique.
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